Wednesday, June 03, 2009

SUMMER GRILLING TIPS

(This article appeared in the June 2, 2009 issue of the Wall Street Journal)

Summertime and the Grillin' Is Easy -- but Do It Safely
Ah, summer. Let's see. Basking in the sun is out because of skin cancer. Those mosquitoes could be carrying the West Nile virus. And the steaks sizzling on the grill, sending their smoky aroma into the air, could be culinary cancer causers. It's enough to make you want to stay inside. But wait: Isn't cooking indoors less healthy because of all that fat in the pan? And what about food-borne bacteria problems with meat not cooked long enough? I asked two nutrition researchers and an epidemiologist how serious the cancer dangers are and how to minimize them. (Most grilling cookbooks are too macho to even mention the word.)
There are three potential problems to consider:
High heat, indoors or out
When protein from any muscle source -- beef, chicken, pork or fish -- is exposed to high temperatures for a long time, it forms a chemical called heterocyclic amines, or HCAs. That can occur indoors on a cooktop or under a broiler, as well as on a grill outside. HCAs have been linked to a variety of cancers in animal and epidemiological studies. The most recent, presented at a cancer meeting in April, found that out of 62,581 people in a big government study, those who preferred well-done steak had a 60% greater likelihood of developing pancreatic cancer than those who liked it less well-cooked or didn't eat steak at all. The absolute risk of pancreatic cancer is small, and researchers can't say with certainty that HCAs cause it. But the findings do reinforce an earlier study linking well-done red meat and pancreatic cancer, says lead researcher Kristin Anderson, an epidemiologist at the University of Minnesota School of Public Health. She notes that scientists are keenly interested in pancreatic cancer, because it is often rapidly fatal. No one has established exactly how much well-done meat is too much, or how done is too done, but Dr. Anderson says the hotter and longer meat is cooked, the more risk there is. That doesn't mean that you need to give up grilling. "My husband has a huge Weber grill in the backyard. We just try to cook meat indirectly, so it's not right over the hot coals or flames," says Dr. Anderson. You can also minimize the formation of HCAs by raising the grill rack, waiting until the coals burn down and flipping the food frequently. "The issue is burning meat rather than grilling it," says Sherry Bale, a spokeswoman for Weber-Stephen Products Co. "We've always said that burned barbecue is bad barbecue."
Traditional long, slow barbecuing avoids the high-temperature problem. Microwaving meats first and grilling just briefly cuts exposure time (though the very notion makes some chefs shudder). And marinating, particularly in citrus or vinegar-based liquids, can reduce HCAs by as much as 96%. Removing any visible charring is helpful -- but a few dark stripes don't necessarily mean trouble if the meat isn't overcooked inside. As for the danger of undercooking, that's avoidable if you use a meat thermometer. (Ground beef and pork should be cooked to at least 160 degrees Fahrenheit; poultry and hot dogs to 165; beef, veal and lamb to between 145 and 160.)
Smoke and flames
A separate hazard occurs when fat drips onto flames and creates smoky flare-ups that coat food with polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons, or PAHs. Long-term exposure to PAHs has been linked to some cancers, but the evidence is less clear than with HCAs. Cooking lean chicken, fish and beef and removing any visible fat can greatly reduce PAHs. "The fattier the item you are cooking, the more drippings you have, and that generates more smoke," says Karen Collins, a nutrition adviser to the American Institute for Cancer Research. Grilling fruits and vegetables doesn't create HCAs and PAHs. "That's a great solution for people who just love grilling and don't want to give up the flavor," she says. A smoky taste doesn't indicate the presence of PAHs; smoking is usually done at low temperatures that don't cause flare-ups. Is sitting near a smoky grill hazardous? Not in the open air where smoke can dissipate, says Denise Snyder, a nutrition researcher at the Duke School of Nursing. "But I wouldn't stand directly over the grill for a long time," she adds.
Red and processed meats
Evidence is growing that what people eat may be a bigger issue than how it's cooked. A National Cancer Institute study of 500,000 people found that those who ate four ounces of red meat or more daily were 30% more likely to die of any cause over 10 years than those who consumed less. Those who ate mostly poultry or fish had a lower risk of death. Many experts advise eating meat sparingly and filling up your plate with vegetables instead.

1 comment:

  1. Those are some good tips. I watch out for harmful carbons too.If you want to take a look at the collection of tips and recipes I have for grilling you can visit www.cookingandgrillinoutdoors.com

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